Ethanol fireplaces solve a problem we hear every week in Maspeth: "I live in a co-op, I have no chimney, no gas line, and I want a real flame." A bioethanol burner gives you real combustion with no venting, no gas hookup and no electrician. It also comes with rules, habits and limits that the glossy photos leave out. This guide covers how they work, what the heat and burn times actually are, ventilation, safety, fuel cost over time, the building approval question in New York City, and a straight comparison with electric, so you can decide whether ethanol fireplaces or electric fireplaces belong in your apartment or house.
The short answer
Buy ethanol if you want a real, open flame with no chimney or gas line, you are fine refueling by hand every evening, your room is big enough for the burner's minimum volume, and your building allows it. Buy electric if you want heat on a thermostat, zero fuel handling, a TV above it, and no approvals. Ethanol is the better fire; electric is the better appliance.
Key takeaways
- An ethanol burner is real combustion with no chimney, gas line or power. The burners we stock put out 11,430 to 20,433 BTU and burn 7 to 13 hours on a fill.
- Room volume is the spec that decides it: roughly 200 cubic feet per 1,000 BTU, so 2,472 cubic feet minimum for a BK5 and 4,097 for an AB8. Measure before you fall for a 35 inch flame.
- There is no thermostat. If the flame is lit, the heat is on, which is a feature in January and a problem in July.
- Nearly every ethanol incident is the same mistake: refueling a burner that is lit or still hot. Wait 60 minutes, use the jerry can spout, and buy only the fuel the burner was tested with.
- Ethanol is not a gas appliance, so the NYC vent-free gas ban does not cover it, but the fuel falls under the NYC Fire Code and most co-op boards want to approve any open flame. Ask in writing first.
- Ethanol is the better fire; electric is the better appliance. If the board says no or the room is too small, a linear electric or a water vapor unit is the answer.
In this guide
- How does an ethanol fireplace work?
- How much heat does it give off, and how long does it burn?
- How big does the room need to be?
- Manual or automatic burner?
- Burner, insert, grate or fire table?
- Is it safe, and does it smell?
- What does it cost to run?
- Can you install one in a NYC co-op or condo?
- Ethanol or electric: how do they compare?
- Our recommended models
- Which should you choose?
- Frequently asked questions
How does an ethanol fireplace work?
An ethanol fireplace is a stainless steel reservoir with a slot on top. You pour in liquid bioethanol, light it, and the vapor burns at the slot as an open flame. There is no chimney, no flue, no gas line and no electrical connection. The fuel is denatured ethanol, essentially high proof alcohol made from fermented corn or sugar crops with a bittering agent added so it cannot be drunk. The fuel we sell and recommend is e-NRG bioethanol, which EcoSmart Fire specifies as 96 to 97 percent pure ethanol by volume and the only fuel tested with its burners.
Because it is real combustion, it produces real heat, real flame movement and real combustion byproducts. Burning ethanol cleanly gives off heat, water vapor and carbon dioxide. There is no smoke, soot or ash, which is why no venting is required, but the room still has to be big enough and have enough air exchange to dilute what the flame produces. That single fact drives most of the rules below.
The burners we carry are from EcoSmart Fire, the Australian brand that has done more than anyone to get ethanol burners properly tested. Their current burners are listed to UL 1370, the U.S. safety standard for unvented alcohol fuel burning decorative appliances, and certified to EN 16647 in Europe. That matters when a co-op board or an insurer asks for paperwork.
How much heat does it give off, and how long does it burn?
Ethanol burners are rated like gas appliances, in BTU per hour, and the numbers are honest because all the heat stays in the room. Here are EcoSmart's published figures for the burners we stock. The manufacturer notes these are indicative and vary with installation and flame setting.
| Burner | Heat output | Capacity | Burn time per fill | Max consumption | Min. room size |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| BK5 (square) | 13,000 BTU/h | 1.3 gal | 7 to 11 h | 0.17 gal/h | 2,472 cu ft |
| XL500 (linear) | 11,430 BTU/h | 1.3 gal | 10 to 13 h | 0.13 gal/h | 2,825 cu ft |
| XL900 (linear) | 15,000 BTU/h | 2.4 gal | 8 to 13 h | 0.21 gal/h | 3,885 cu ft |
| AB8 (square, high output) | 20,433 BTU/h | 2.1 gal | 7 to 9 h | 0.29 gal/h | 4,097 cu ft |
Put those in context. A BK5 at 13,000 BTU is about two and a half times the heat of a plug-in electric fireplace, and EcoSmart says it will warm around 377 square feet on average. The AB8 at over 20,000 BTU is in the territory of a small direct vent gas fireplace and heats around 646 square feet. The flip side is that there is no thermostat and no "flame only" switch. If the fire is lit, the heat is on. In a small, tight apartment in July that is a feature you will notice.
Burn time is per full reservoir, and the range reflects the flame slider: wide open burns hotter and faster, closed down stretches a tank. In practice our customers run an XL500 three or four evenings on one fill.
How big does the room need to be?
This is the spec people skip and the one we will not let you skip. EcoSmart publishes a minimum room volume for every burner, from 2,472 cubic feet for the BK5 up to 4,097 cubic feet for the AB8. Their general rule is 200 cubic feet of air for every 1,000 BTU per hour of burner rating. A 12 by 14 foot room with 9 foot ceilings is 1,512 cubic feet, too small for any of these burners on its own. The same room open to a 15 by 18 foot living area becomes about 3,942 cubic feet and clears everything but the AB8.
Open plan helps, and so does an open door to an adjoining room. EcoSmart also says to crack a window in smaller spaces, and to keep the burner out of cross drafts, which make the flame unstable. In a prewar apartment with a sealed, renovated layout and new windows, air exchange is lower than in an old drafty one, so treat the published minimums as minimums. If you cannot meet them, this is where we steer you toward electric.
From our install team
Measure room volume, not floor area. Length times width times ceiling height, in feet. Then compare it with the burner's minimum room size before you fall in love with a 35 inch flame. We have talked more than one customer down from an XL900 to an XL500 for a one bedroom, and they were happier for it.
Manual or automatic burner?
Every burner we list here is manual. You fill the reservoir from a jerry can with a safety nozzle that stops at the max line, light it with a lighting rod, adjust the flame with a slider, and close the lid to extinguish it. It is a two minute ritual, and the lack of electronics is part of the appeal: nothing to fail, nothing to plug in, nothing to update.
Automatic burners are the other category. They add electronic ignition from a remote or app, a fuel pump that draws from a separate tank, and sensors that cut the flame if carbon dioxide rises, the unit tips, or the fuel runs low. They need a power connection, they cost several times what a manual burner costs, and they are what you specify for a hotel lobby or a client who will never touch a lighting rod. For a home where someone is present when the fire is lit, a certified manual burner with a top tray does the job. If you want to discuss an automatic unit for a specific project, call us; we can source them but we do not list them online.
Burner, insert, grate or fire table?
Bare burners go into something you build: a custom plaster niche, a millwork cabinet, a stone wall. Indoors, EcoSmart requires its top tray around the burner, which gives a finished stainless or black frame and protects the surrounding surface. The XL900 is 35.7 inches long and the one we spec for feature walls; the XL500 at 19.7 inches fits a bookshelf bay or a narrow pier. Square burners like the BK5 and AB8 suit a traditional opening or a fire table.
Inserts are a burner inside a finished steel firebox so you do not have to build anything. The Heritage 42SS is a 49.9 by 41.5 inch black steel box with a BK5 inside, built to sit in a traditional mantel opening. There are also 26 and 56 inch versions, and the whole ethanol insert collection is where to start if you have an existing dead fireplace.
Grates are the retrofit for a working masonry fireplace that you no longer want to burn wood in. The Grate 30 holds an XL500 on a steel log grate frame, so you get a 30 inch flame on the hearth and the chimney is simply closed off. The Heritage Grate 25 does the same in a smaller, more traditional grate format. Since New York City has not allowed new wood burning fireplaces in years and many co-ops have capped their chimneys, this is a popular route in Brooklyn brownstones and Manhattan prewars.
Fire tables and outdoor pieces use the same burners under a concrete or teak top. The Martini 50, Mimosa 40 and Gin 90 are the ones we put on Long Island patios and Manhattan terraces where propane tanks are not welcome. Browse ethanol fire pit tables and the Stix portable fire pit for the full range.
Not sure what fits your space? Tell us the room dimensions, whether there is an existing fireplace opening, and what your building allows, and we will match a burner or insert to it. Book a free design consultation and we will help you narrow it down.
Is it safe, and does it smell?
An ethanol burner is an open flame in your living room. Treated with the respect you would give a gas range, it is a safe appliance. The incidents you read about almost all come from one mistake: pouring fuel into a burner that is still lit or still hot. Ethanol flame can be nearly invisible in daylight, and fuel hitting a hot reservoir can flash. EcoSmart's instructions are explicit: shut the appliance off and let it cool 60 minutes before refueling, and do not assume it is out just because you cannot see a flame.
The rest of the safety list is short and worth following to the letter:
- Fill from the jerry can with the safety spout, not by pouring from a bottle. The spout stops at the max line.
- Wipe any spill immediately with a dry cloth, then a damp one, and let it dry before lighting.
- Keep children, pets, clothing and furniture clear. The top tray and the surround get hot. A certified screen is a good idea with kids.
- Never leave the fire unattended, and keep a dry chemical extinguisher nearby.
- Use only the fuel the burner was tested with. Gas station ethanol, gel fuel, isopropyl alcohol and hardware store denatured alcohol are not the same product and void the listing and the warranty.
- Store fuel in its original container or the jerry can, away from the burner and any heat source. EcoSmart's handling guidance notes that fire codes typically require permits above 5 gallons stored indoors, so buy a case at a time, not a pallet.
Smell is the question we get most. A clean burning ethanol flame with good fuel is close to odorless. You may notice a faint alcohol scent at lighting and a brief one at extinguishing, and that is it. If your fireplace smells while it runs, the usual culprits are cheap fuel with a higher water or impurity content, a reservoir that was overfilled, or a room that is too small. Owners who switch to e-NRG from bargain fuel tend to report the smell goes away.
What does it cost to run?
We do not put prices in these guides because they move, but the math is simple and worth doing before you buy. Fuel consumption at full flame runs from 0.13 gallons per hour on an XL500 to 0.29 on an AB8. A quart bottle of e-NRG is a quarter gallon, so at full flame an XL500 goes through a quart in roughly two hours, and turned down it stretches to three or more. A 5 liter jerry can is about 1.3 gallons, one full tank for an XL500 or BK5.
Compare that with the alternatives. A direct vent gas fireplace on a natural gas line costs a fraction of that per hour to run, and an electric fireplace on flame only mode draws about as much as a light bulb. Ethanol is the most expensive flame per hour of the three. For the customer who lights a fire a couple of evenings a week in winter, that is a few cases of fuel a season and nobody minds. For the customer who wants a fire every night from October to April, we usually say gas if you can get it and electric if you cannot.
There is also no maintenance budget to speak of. No annual gas service, no venting to inspect, no chimney sweep. Wipe the burner and the top tray, keep the baffles clean, and keep the jerry can spout free of residue.
Can you install one in a NYC co-op or condo?
Here is where ethanol gets interesting in the five boroughs. The New York City Fuel Gas Code does not allow vent-free gas fireplaces inside the city. That rule is about gas appliances. Ethanol fireplaces are not gas appliances, so they are not covered by it, which is exactly why they became the go to real flame option in Manhattan apartments. They are, however, an open flame burning a flammable liquid, so they fall under the NYC Fire Code, which is enforced by FDNY and governs how flammable liquids are stored, handled and used in residential buildings.
What that means in practice: FDNY rules on flammable liquid quantities in a dwelling apply to the fuel you keep on hand, some ethanol products have gone through FDNY approval processes, and your building may have its own policy on top. Co-op and condo boards in our experience fall into three camps. Some have a blanket ban on open flame appliances written into the house rules. Some allow UL listed ethanol units with a letter from the installer and a copy of the listing. Some have never been asked and will want to see paperwork before they say yes. Rental buildings have their own lease language. Ask the managing agent before you order, and ask in writing.
Outside the city, on Long Island, in Westchester and in New Jersey, you will rarely run into a code issue in a single family house, and insurers generally treat a UL 1370 listed burner like any other decorative appliance. In South Florida condos the same board approval conversation applies, and the terrace fire tables are usually the easier sell than an indoor burner.
From our install team
When a board asks for documentation, send three things: the UL 1370 listing for the burner, the manufacturer's clearance and installation manual, and a short letter stating the room volume versus the burner's minimum. That package has gotten more approvals for our customers than any argument about how clean ethanol burns.
Ethanol or electric: how do they compare?
This is the comparison that settles most of these sales, so here it is without the sales pitch.
| Factor | Ethanol | Electric |
|---|---|---|
| Flame | Real, open, moves with the air, radiant warmth on your face | LED or projected; the best ones fool people across the room, none fool you up close |
| Heat | 11,000 to 20,000 BTU, always on when lit, no thermostat | About 5,000 BTU on 120V, up to about 8,500 BTU on 240V, thermostat, flame without heat |
| Install | No vent, no gas, no power; needs room volume and clearances | Plug in or hardwire; no clearances to speak of; TV above is fine |
| Running cost | Highest per hour of any fireplace type | Pennies on flame only; a space heater's worth with the heater on |
| Daily use | Fill, light, extinguish, wait an hour before refilling | Remote or app |
| Approvals | Often needs board sign off in NYC; Fire Code applies to fuel | None beyond an electrician for hardwired units |
| Maintenance | Wipe burner and tray, clean baffles | Dust the glass; LEDs last for years |
If the flame is the point, ethanol wins and it is not close. An XL900 ribbon of fire behind a plaster wall has a presence no screen matches, and the radiant heat on your shins is real. If the fireplace is background, something you switch on with the lights and forget, electric wins just as clearly. A linear electric like a Dimplex IgniteXL or Modern Flames Landscape Pro gives you a 50 to 100 inch flame wall, color control, a thermostat and nothing to refill. The third option, for customers who want the look of real flame with electric convenience, is a water vapor fireplace, which makes a three dimensional "flame" from mist and LED light with no heat and no fuel.
Our recommended models
Every pick below is an EcoSmart Fire unit listed to UL 1370, which is the paperwork a board or insurer will ask for. We chose by room size first and flame size second, because that is the order the decision actually goes in.
Burners for custom builds
Inserts, grates, fire tables and fuel
Ethanol FireplacesEthanol BurnersEthanol InsertsEthanol Fire Tablese-NRG FuelElectric Fireplaces
Which should you choose?
Choose ethanol if:
- You want a real, open flame and real radiant heat with no chimney or gas line.
- Your room clears the burner's minimum volume with room to spare.
- Your building allows open flame appliances, in writing.
- You are happy with a two minute fill-and-light ritual a few evenings a week.
- You have a dead masonry fireplace you want to use again (Grate 30).
Choose electric if:
- You want heat on a thermostat, or flame with no heat in summer.
- A TV is going above the fireplace.
- You want nothing to refill, store or light, and no approvals beyond an electrician.
- Your room is under the ethanol volume minimum or your board bans open flame.
- You want a 50 to 100 inch flame wall on a budget.
The honest tiebreaker is your building. If the board says no to open flame, the decision is made for you, and the electric category has gotten very good; a linear electric or a water vapor unit is where we send you. If the board says yes and your room clears the volume minimum, nothing else puts a real fire in a Manhattan apartment without a chimney, and we would start with the XL500 for a one bedroom or the XL900 for a feature wall. For a terrace, the Martini 50 or Mimosa 40 is the easier approval than an indoor burner.
Frequently asked questions
Do ethanol fireplaces give off real heat?
Yes. The burners we sell are rated from 11,430 to 20,433 BTU per hour, and because there is no chimney, all of it stays in the room. EcoSmart says a BK5 warms around 377 square feet on average and an AB8 around 646. There is no thermostat, so the heat is on whenever the flame is.
Are ethanol fireplaces safe to use indoors?
Yes, when the burner is listed to UL 1370, the room meets the manufacturer's minimum volume, and you follow the refueling rules. The one habit that causes nearly every incident is adding fuel to a burner that is lit or still hot. EcoSmart says to shut it off and wait 60 minutes before refueling.
Do ethanol fireplaces smell?
A clean burning flame with quality fuel is close to odorless. You may notice a faint alcohol scent at lighting and extinguishing. A fireplace that smells while running usually points to low grade fuel, an overfilled reservoir, or a room that is too small for the burner.
How long does an ethanol fireplace burn on one fill?
It depends on the burner and the flame setting. The XL500 runs 10 to 13 hours on 1.3 gallons, the XL900 8 to 13 hours on 2.4 gallons, and the AB8 7 to 9 hours on 2.1 gallons. Turned down, a fill lasts several evenings.
Can I put an ethanol fireplace in a NYC co-op or condo?
Often, but check first. The NYC Fuel Gas Code rule against vent-free gas fireplaces does not cover ethanol because it is not a gas appliance. Ethanol fuel is a flammable liquid under the NYC Fire Code, enforced by FDNY, and most boards want to approve any open flame appliance. Ask the managing agent in writing and have the UL listing and installation manual ready.
Do I need a chimney or vent for an ethanol fireplace?
No. Ethanol burns to heat, water vapor and carbon dioxide with no smoke or soot, so no flue is needed. What you need instead is enough room volume, from about 2,500 to 4,100 cubic feet depending on the burner, and reasonable air exchange, such as an open door or a cracked window in smaller rooms.
Can I use an ethanol burner in my old wood burning fireplace?
Yes, that is what the grate models are for. An EcoSmart Grate 30 sits on the hearth with an XL500 inside and the chimney stays closed. It is the most common ethanol install we do in Brooklyn brownstones and Manhattan prewars with capped chimneys.
Ethanol or electric for an apartment?
Ethanol if you want a real flame and real heat, your room clears the burner's minimum volume, your building allows open flame, and you are fine refueling by hand. Electric if you want a thermostat, a flame without heat in summer, a TV above it, no fuel to buy and no approvals. Ethanol is the better fire; electric is the better appliance.
Talk to a specialist
A real flame with no chimney, sized to your room and your building's rules
We have been designing, selling, installing and servicing fire features and outdoor kitchens for over 30 years across New York City, Long Island, Westchester, New Jersey and South Florida. Bring your room dimensions and your house rules and we will tell you whether ethanol, electric or direct vent gas is the right answer, then install it.
Book a free consultationCall 718-326-4328Showroom: 58-30 Maspeth Ave, Maspeth, Queens.
Related guides
Browse all buying guides and expert advice →
Written by the NYC Fireplaces & Outdoor Kitchens team. Last reviewed October 2026. We sell, install and service the products discussed here.
Sources:EcoSmart Fire XL900 specifications, EcoSmart Fire XL500, EcoSmart Fire AB8, EcoSmart Fire BK5, EcoSmart Fire Heritage 42SS, EcoSmart Fire Grate 30, EcoSmart Fire e-NRG fuel and ventilation guidance, EcoSmart Fire safety instructions, EcoSmart Fire fuel storage and handling, NYC Fire Code (FDNY), 2022 New York City Fuel Gas Code. Specifications change; always confirm with the manufacturer's current installation manual.